"The Lakes Circuit" is a half-day walk that can be started, and ended, at the Dahnya Information Centre, Sandridge Road, or at the Barmah Lake Camping Ground. The track was improved and gravel applied to it in July 1997. It is possible to do full-day walks in the Barmah Forest but you should drive about the area first and study maps before setting out. Much of forest may be hard to negotiate when runners and swamps contain water. Note: "Moira Forest Walkway" is not maintained and no longer distinct between the footbridge over Gulpa Creek and the Murray. Furthermore, it is cut by floodwaters for much of the year.About 20,000 years ago the Murray flowed north of Echuca, along the course of what is today called Green Gully. It was the Goulburn River that flowed through what is now Echuca. Tectonic activity caused the land to the west of what is now called the Barmah Swamp to be uplifted (the Cadell Tilt Block). The Cadell Fault Line runs from Deniliquin to Moama. The westward course of the Murray was blocked and a huge lake formed as a result.

The Barmah Forest 

Over the years, the Murray tried to escape from this lake. Gulpa Creek is an early attempt. Eventually the waters flowed around the northern edge of the tilt block as The Edward (alongside which Deniliquin is now built) and south as The Narrows. The Edward rejoined the old course of the Murray near Barham but The Narrows flowed into the Goulburn. Because the Narrows and The Edward are new rivers, they have no "banks" and only the natural levees, which formed, prevent the rivers from spreading out over a vast area. In flood times they do anyway because they cannot carry as much water as other parts of the river system. Frequent flooding enabled a red gum forest be created, with Banksia and native Pine dominating the sand ridges which mark the retreating edge of prior lakes. The Moira and Barmah Lakes are separate only because of natural levees formed as the Murray passed through the lake, and they are but a remnant of their former size.

Today, extensive red gum forests grow along the Murray River between Cobram, Deniliquin and Echuca-Moama. The forest is usually referred to as the Barmah Swamp and most visitors keep to the Victorian side. Barmah Forest, much of which is a State Park, lies between Cobram and Barmah on the Victorian side of the Murray River.

The forest on the NSW side, which lacks national park status, is called Moira Forest (between Picnic Point Road and Barmah Road), Gulpa Island (north of Picnic Point Road to the Edward River), Millewa Forest (between the Edward and the Murray) and Bama Forest (south of Barmah). The term "Millewa Forest" is sometimes applied to the forest on the NSW side of the Murray River.Fortunately, an area of around 1,500ha which includes Moira Lake and the surrounding Moira Grass plains, has been declared a flora reserve and cattle have been excluded. Timber extraction in the area has ceased and an extensive restoration programme is well under way.

The Reed Beds to the north have been protected by a 2,000ha exclosure in which forestry and grazing have been prohibited. An expensive restoration programme has been undertaken and there has been a marked improvement in the vegetation and bird life although the recent drought and lack of environmental water are a problem.

There is an interesting half-day forest drive on the Victorian side of the Murray River from Barmah Town along Sand Ridge Road to "The Gulf" and on to Morgans Beach. Because of the length of the drive, it is best to return to Barmah via the sealed Picola-Barmah Road.On the NSW side of the river, the sign-posted Moira Forest Drive leaves the Cobb Highway and follows Poverty Point, Narrows and Swifts Creek roads.

The drive from Mathoura along Picnic Point Road to the Murray River is also a delightful drive but the road has been straightened and widened and is now bitumen for most of its length.

The best spot for walking is probably Gulpa Island (when not in drought). A 16km circuit can be done incorporating Tea Tree Road (the plants are actually fringe myrtles or Calytrix tetragona), Langmans Road and Gulpa Creek Road. Tea Tree Road follows a sand ridge (lunette) which has been fenced in places to protect the feeding grounds of rare birds as well as to encourage the regeneration of banksias, hop bushes, Calytrix and other plants. Those behind this idea are to be applauded as the fences keep rabbits and cattle off the environmentally sensitive lunettes. A degraded sandhill in the Millewa Forest has been fenced to exclude cattle and revegetation work will be undertaken.

In late summer and autumn, it is sometimes possible to walk around Moira Lake (17km). Another good walk is on the Victorian side, from Hut Lake south (225 degrees on the compass) across Steamer Plain (knee high Moira Grass in late summer) to Barmah Lake and along the Murray to Broken Creek. There is a walking circuit from the picnic ground at Barmah Lake along Broken Creek, across to the Dharnya (Information)

Centre and back through the forest to Barmah Lake. For those who like cross country walking, it is suggested that you consider walking in autumn east from Thistle Bend to Duckhole Plain and then north to the Gluepot, returning alongside the Murray.Raised river levels and flooding sometimes make forest access difficult between May and November. Furthermore, limited access may be possible through summer until March.

East of the Cobb Highway between Deniliquin and Echuca, extending back along the flood plain of the Murray River towards Tocumwal, are more than 35,000 hectares of State Forests. These River Red Gum forests contain many unusual features of great interest and are criss-crossed by a number of picturesque forest drives.

I would like to take you on a drive through one of our favourite spots, Gulpa Island. Gulpa Island is bounded by the Edward River and the Gulpa Creek. The drive is about 15km. It commences at Mathoura and can be entered by crossing Polly's Bridge at the Gateway Caravan Park on Gulpa Creek.

Turn sharp left past the bridge and continue beside the creek, stopping at the cattle grid. You will see on your left a scarred tree. The scar marks the place where an aborigine has removed a sheet of bark to make a canoe many years ago.

A short distance further on, look away to the left and you will see the Cadell Tilt. This is a north-south fault in the Earth's surface which rose up to 10m above the land to the east, some thousands of years ago. This altered the course of the Murray River by blocking its flow through Green Gully. The water split, some flowing South towards Echuca, the other flowing north (Edward River) through Deniliquin. The two arms rejoin some 200 kms west.

While observing the flora and bird life, follow the Gulpa Creek Road. You will see a lonely remnant of the original stand of Sandalwood. Continue on and you will see Blue Rod, Slender Hopbush, Narrow Hopbush, Ruby Salt Bush and Kurrajong.

Melville Road and Langman's Road will take you through to sand ridges with large numbers of native trees, shrubs and other plants such as Murray Pine, Cooba, Grey Mulga, Cherry Ballart, Calytrix (Fringe Myrtle), etc which are all common on the sandhill.

Some areas are fenced for preservation and walking around these you can see the following native regrowth: Banksia marginata, Pale-fruit Ballart, Buloke, Clematis microphylla, Common Fireweed, Nodding Saltbush, Blushing Bindweed, Woollyhead Mat Rush, Austral Bugles, Cranberry Heath, Flannel Cudweed, Common Wheat Grass, Shrubby Riceflower and Native Jasmine. Kangaroos and emus may be sighted on your journey.

On a day there recently we say more than 50 species of birds, including Superb Parrots and a large number of Friarbird. From where we sat having lunch, we watched nesting pairs of Diamond Firetails, Striated Pardalotes and rainbow Bee-eaters busily feeding their young.

You may pass many camping and fishing spots along the way and will re- enter the Cobb Highway some 12km north of Mathoura. As you leave the forest, observe the large regrowth of River Red Gum that struck after the 1993 floods. You will also notice the high flood levels on the trees. We hope you enjoy this tour as much as we do. Over the years, Europeans have exploited the forest. The forest is still logged and grazed by cattle, although these activities are being excluded from the State Park and are not permitted in the exclosures on the NSW side of the Murray. Cattlemen were attracted by Moira grass, which is green in summer when surrounding lands are barren.

The removal of cattle at the end of summer is termed "The Barmah Muster" and has become somewhat of an attraction. Feral pigs and brumbies (wild horses) add to the damage caused by the cattle.

The forest attracts lots of tourists and brings lots of money into the region. But there's another benefit: these wetlands are habitat for large numbers of ibis which each day travel to surrounding farms, preying on insect pests that feed on crops and pastures. At night, large numbers of bats leave the forest in search of insects, supplementing the work of the ibis. This natural pest control service has been valued at over $650,000 per annum.

Red Gum is susceptible to fire, relying on flooding for regeneration. Some argue that the cattle reduce the "fuel" on the forest floor and lessen the danger of fires. That being the cease, the major damage is on sand ridges where cattle not only prevent the regeneration of banksias, hop bushes and wattles but where they destroy the nests of rainbow birds. They also cause problems in reed bed swamps. There is a growing realisation that cattle should be excluded from such areas and fencing is being erected in places to protect sensitive areas, e.g. on sandy areas along Picnic Point Road, along Millewa (Aratula) Road, along Tea Tree Road and along Langmans Road in Gulpa Island. Recently, the Reed Beds and Moira Lake have been fenced off. Cattle are being phased out of Barmah State Park. The number of cattle which can be grazed under lease has been reduced significantly over recent years and more power given to land managers.

The Yorta Yorta found an abundance of food in the area. Many Aboriginal middens and sacred sites have been fenced off; entry into such areas is prohibited. Their land rights claim has not been successful.

Fishing is popular along Gulpa Creek. Work is under way to restore Moira Lake to its original condition - it used to be a great fishing spot in the early days of European settlement. Cattle have also been excluded from the reed beds, resulting in the return of many plants which have been uncommon for many years. The final stage of the restoration involves the relocation of the Moira Channel.

If you can visit here, the raucous cry of flocks of sulphur-crested cockatoos coming form the red gums will remain etched in your memory for years to come. A nasty side of the forest is a terrible insect-borne strain of encephalitis. So, if you visit, wear long clothing and use repellent.Barmah Town and Barmah Lake are about half an hour's drive north of Echuca-Moama. Bush camping is allowed alongside Barmah Lake, at the Top End and along the NSW side of the Murray. There are caravan parks at Barmah Town and at Picnic Point.To coordinate water and help manage the forest, the Barmah-Millewa Forum has been established. This forum includes representatives from government and non-government bodies from both sides of the river, e.g. Parks Victoria, Forestry Commission of NSW, Murray-Goulburn Water, Shire of Murray, Bird Observers Club, Barmah Protection League, Forest Users Group, irrigators. Some criticise the Forum, saying that cattle, irrigation and forestry interests are over-represented. But the Forum serves a worthwhile purpose and it is terrific that a body exists to manage the forest as a whole, with representatives of groups from both sides of the State border. The forum is financed by the Murray-Darling Commission which has designated the Barmah-MillewaForest as an icon site which needs protection. In recent years, the Forum has been studying flooding patterns and installing regulators and levee banks so that pre-1799 flooding patterns can be simulated. At the moment, the Forum is working on the installation of fish ladders so that fish can move unimpeded by man-made obstructions such as weirs. The Forum is also working on a new map of the Forest which is expected to be released sometime in the new three months.Some argue that the entire Barmah-Millewa Forest should be a national park. Whether or not this campaign is successful, the forest must continue to be managed and to be managed even better than it has in the past. The good thing about the NSW exclosures and Moira Flora Reserve is that they are well managed by local employees of the Forestry Commission of NSW, both long-serving staff and younger locals, who between them have a wealth of experience and local knowledge which must not be lost if and when the forest is given national park status. The present "exclosoures" on the NSW